Royal Robbins

The American Climber

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Pub Date Sep 01 2023 | Archive Date Nov 15 2023

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Description

"Royal Robbins had an outsized impact on climbing history. This great new biography by David Smart brings the man behind the famous climbs to life in a way that’s both relatable and inspiring."--Alex Honnold

Robbins’s passing in 2017 was covered from the BBC News to NPR to the New York Times, which deemed him the "conscience of rock climbers"

Includes never-before-published information drawn from Robbins’s family archives and personal papers

International interest in the Golden Age of Yosemite only continues to grow

Acclaimed writer David Smart illuminates the fascinating life of Royal Robbins---in all its soulful ambition, rivalry, and romance. Royal Robbins chronicles his early years growing up as a latchkey kid in Southern California, the push and pull between being an aspiring banker or one of the original Camp 4 dirtbags, and his later decades as a father, husband, kayaker, and the trailblazing founder of the outdoor apparel company that bears his name. This intimate, colorful tour of climbing history covering Yosemite, the Tetons, the Gunks, the Alps, the United Kingdom, and more from the 1960s onward features star characters such as Liz Robbins-- Robbins’s wife and a pioneering adventurer in her own right-- Yvon Chouinard, John Harlin, Steve Roper, Warren Harding, Tom Frost, and Doug Tompkins.

An important addition to our knowledge of the Golden Age of rock climbing in Yosemite and the development of the clean climbing ethos, Royal Robbins sheds new light on an elemental figure of outdoor culture.

"Royal Robbins had an outsized impact on climbing history. This great new biography by David Smart brings the man behind the famous climbs to life in a way that’s both relatable and inspiring."--Alex...


Advance Praise

“A central figure in the history of climbing in Yosemite, Royal Robbins taught us how to allow the vertical world to change us—an antidote to conquering a mountain. David Smart takes us on Robbins’s amazing transformation of this sport.” —Conrad Anker

“Royal Robbins had an outsized impact on climbing history. This great new biography by David Smart brings the man behind the famous climbs to life in a way that’s both relatable and inspiring.” —Alex Honnold

“Royal Robbins was a leading climber and legend during the golden age of big wall climbing. This is an important story of him and that age.” —Yvon Chouinard

“Royal Robbins set the cultural and ethical standards for the golden age of American rock climbing. Readers everywhere will surely be moved by his inspiring story.” —Tommy Caldwell

“Once again, David Smart brings his impressive abilities for in-depth research, nuanced historical interpretation, and immersive prose to a biography of a complex and enigmatic climber—demonstrating how fortunate we all are, as readers of mountain literature, that Smart has chosen this genre.” —Katie Ives


“A central figure in the history of climbing in Yosemite, Royal Robbins taught us how to allow the vertical world to change us—an antidote to conquering a mountain. David Smart takes us on Robbins’s...


Available Editions

EDITION Paperback
ISBN 9781680516586
PRICE $22.95 (USD)
PAGES 256

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