The Gorilla Man and the Empress of Steak

A New Orleans Family Memoir

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Pub Date Oct 03 2011 | Archive Date Sep 01 2012

Description

The Gorilla Man and the Empress of Steak is the story of two larger-than-life characters and the son whom their lives helped to shape. Ruth Fertel was a petite, smart, tough-as-nails blonde with a weakness for rogues, who founded the Ruth's Chris Steak House empire almost by accident. Rodney Fertel was a gold-plated, one-of-a-kind character, a railbird-heir to wealth from a pawnshop of dubious repute just around the corner from where the teenage Louis Armstrong and his trumpet were discovered. When he ran for mayor of New Orleans on a single campaign promise-buying a pair of gorillas for the zoo- he garnered a paltry 308 votes. Then he purchased the gorillas anyway!

These colorful characters yoked together two worlds not often connected-lazy rice farms in the bayous and swinging urban streets where ethnicities jazzily collided. A trip downriver to the hamlet of Happy Jack, in the Mississippi River Delta, focuses on its French-Alsatian roots, bountiful tables, and self-reliant lifestyle that inspired a restaurant legend. The story also offers a close-up of life in the Old Jewish Quarter on Rampart Street-and how it intersected with the denizens of "Back ‘o' Town," just a few blocks away, who brought jazz from New Orleans to the world.

The Gorilla Man and the Empress of Steak is a New Orleans story, featuring the distinctive characters, color, food, and history of that city-before Hurricane Katrina and after. But it also is the universal story of family and the full magnitude of outsize follies leavened with equal measures of humor, rage, and rue.

Randy Fertel, New Orleans, Louisiana, and New York, New York, is a writer and president of both the Fertel Foundation and the Ruth U. Fertel Foundation. He has taught English at Harvard, Tulane, LeMoyne College, the University of New Orleans, and the New School for Social Research.

The Gorilla Man and the Empress of Steak is the story of two larger-than-life characters and the son whom their lives helped to shape. Ruth Fertel was a petite, smart, tough-as-nails blonde with a...


Advance Praise

Advance praise for

The Gorilla Man and the Empress of Steak
A New Orleans Family Memoir

By Randy Fertel

"The Gorilla Man and The Empress of Steak is that rare memoir that manages to be both intimately personal and yet of broad appeal. For it is truly the portrait of a generation, even as it brings vividly to life a panoply of individual characters in New Orleans. They may be black or white or creole; they may be male or female. But all fill the reader with joy and wonder, and a fair share of tears as well. Beautifully written, affectionate, witty, this book tugs us from one cover to the other."

- David H. Lynn, editor, The Kenyon Review

"Who better to deliver the strange soul of New Orleans, a city we can't live without, than Randy Fertel? Ruth and Rodney's child, who suffered and gloried terribly at their hands, is only New Orleans's latest beautiful family memoirist."

- Paul Hendrickson, author of Looking for the Light: The Hidden Life and Art of Marion Post Wolcott and The Living and the Dead: Robert McNamara and Five Lives of a Lost War

"A giant jambalaya of a book that throws into the pot a huge variety of ingredients that surprise, delight, burn the tongue, sear the heart, make you laugh until you cry-and beg for more. With candor and courage, the author does more than spill the beans of a highly eccentric family. He makes those beans as characteristic of the flavor of New Orleans as any of its wild and crazy stews. His triumph, as a writer obsessed with history, is to have turned the story of his own disastrous family into the story of the city itself."

- Betty Fussell, author of My Kitchen Wars, The Story of Corn, and Raising Steaks: The Life and Times of American Beef.

"I just finished reading the Earner piece, and it is indeed fabulous. I just love it! It's such a great snapshot of her, so funny, and also miraculously captivating. It's just wonderful. Is this going to be in your book, or is it a separate piece altogether? Thanks for sending it along. It's just wonderful."

- Susan Orlean

"His mother was the ‘first lady of American restaurants.' His father was ‘odd, self-centered, and nuts.' Randy Fertel leverages a raucous New Orleans upbringing, in which Salvador Dali and Edwin Edwards play bit parts, to tell the story of an uncommon American family, defined, in equal measure, by bold swagger and humbling vulnerabilities."

- John T. Edge, series editor, Cornbread Nation: The Best of Southern Food Writing

"This wonderfully affecting family memoir is a well-told tale of personalized social history, but ever so much more than that. It is a sentient evocation of the sights, sounds, tastes, smells, and feel of New Orleans and its sprawling interface with the mighty river and gulf that are its hope and despair, its inescapable fate. Drawing from two hundred years of his family's thrive-and-survive presence on the lip of a watery grave, Fertel gives us a palpable sense of its essence-as close as you can get without living there yourself."

- John Egerton

"Randy Fertel's soulful southern storytelling captures you instantly. I love how he uses the lens of family and food to tell the rich, complex history of New Orleans."

- Alice Waters

"Ambition, abandonment, revenge, the Napoleonic code, broken promises, gorillas, bad contracts, evil intentions, and lawsuits never-ending; they're all here in Randy Fertel's feast of a memoir, served with a healthy side of New Orleans history, and, for dessert, ville flottante! Balzac would be envious, Tennessee Williams would feel right at home."

- Valerie Martin

Funny, smart, poignant, and richly redolent of New Orleans, Randy Fertel's The Gorilla Man and the Empress of Steak is a brilliant memoir by a very talented writer indeed.

- Robert Olen Butler

'With unsparing honesty and love, Randy Fertel unravels the mystery of his eccentric, legendary parents. The Gorilla Man and the Empress of Steak is by turns wry and sad, hilarious and heartbreaking, but always, always delectable.'

- Stewart O'Nan, author of Emily, Alone

Advance praise for

The Gorilla Man and the Empress of Steak
A New Orleans Family Memoir

By Randy Fertel

"The Gorilla Man and The Empress of Steak is that rare memoir that manages to be...


Available Editions

EDITION Hardcover
ISBN 9781617030826
PRICE 28.00
PAGES 288