A fascinating and funny journey into Alaska, America's last frontier, retracing the historic 1899 Harriman Expedition.
In the late 19th century, railroad magnate Edward Harriman decided he needed a break from his business concerns, which were having a detrimental effect on his health. He concluded a vacation was in order, and, being an avid hunter, he planned to take his family to Alaska so he could hunt bear.

Also being immensely wealthy, the man decided that rather than simply travel for pleasure he would fund a full-blown expedition to the far north as part of his travels, one which would include dozens of the most knowledgeable naturalists of his day. The SS George W. Elder was commissioned, re-fitted to Harriman's specs, and subsequently left Seattle for Alaska on May 31, 1899 with a team of luminaries aboard, its two-month voyage intended to document the state's geography and environment. Almost 120 years later, travel writer Mark Adams set off on his own journey to Alaska, intent on following the Harriman party's footsteps. Tip of the Iceberg compares the Harriman expedition's experiences to his own.

The first few chapters focus primarily on the 1899 trip, describing Harriman and the others who were aboard. It's astonishing to think that a private individual would be willing to underwrite such a major undertaking, recruiting a veritable who's-who of America's most famous naturalists to participate. These included John Muir, creator of the Sierra Club and an expert on glaciers and George Bird Grinnell, who as editor of the influential Forest and Stream magazine and founder of the Audubon Society was "arguably the most respected outdoorsman in the country." Also on board were C. Hart Merriam, the co-founder of the National Geographic Society; Henry Gannett, whose "brilliant innovations in geography led him to be known as 'the Father of American Map Making,'" and a whole host of other well-known scientists, artists, photographers and writers. This multi-disciplinary team mapped unknown fjords and glaciers, discovered new plant and animal species, and documented what remained of the native cultures in the area. They were also one of the first groups of people to identify the need for conservation of Alaskan resources, such as its salmon and seal populations.

Gradually, Adams turns the focus away from this historical venture to his own trip, a part of the narrative that I found much more entertaining. He has a gift for describing scenes so vividly they made me want to visit the areas he explored:

Our two-person kayak skimmed the surface of Glacier Bay's glassy water, the bow pointed like a compass needle at the rocky lump of Russell Island. The sun was out, always a pleasant surprise in Southeast Alaska, and a light mist lingered around the island's upper half. We'd been paddling for about an hour, but I had no idea how far we'd come or how far we had left to go. My sense of scale hadn't yet acclimated to the vastness we'd entered—water, sky, and mountains were all I had to work with. Aside from the splash of our paddles and the occasional tap-tapping of sea otters cracking open mussels, all was quiet.

Adams also introduces the quirky individuals he meets in his travels, such as Nome mayor Richard Beneville, "a chatty, gay, ex-alcoholic liberal" whose previous career included performing in off-Broadway musicals; as well as "Robert," who doesn't want his name used because he "transacted much of his business in gold and considered the Internal Revenue Service illegitimate." The author is also adept at conveying the dangers he ran into, primarily due to bears and bad weather. Most notably, Adams narrates all his experiences with a sense of humor.

Although several sections are devoted to a discussion of climate change and Adams does subscribe to the belief that increasing world temperatures are human-caused, the book isn't a manifesto. Indeed, the author points out that the glaciers had already begun receding in John Muir's day (the scientist was unable to use maps from 1794 because the landscape was so different, the glaciers having withdrawn over 40 miles in the interval). Adams also mentions that while climate change will have dire impacts in many cases, some regions may see benefits, counterbalanced by negatives.

Tip of the Iceberg is one of the better travelogues I've read in recent years. It vibrantly conveys Alaska's sights and describes Adams' own encounters there with insight and humor. I highly recommend the book, especially for armchair travelers and those interested in the history and nature of this unique land.

I dont often read non fiction, so when I do I make sure to go for subjects I know I would like. This was an interesting (although a bit dry) story but I found myself skimming too often. No fault of the author, but for me, it wasn't my cup of tea

A very interesting read that traces the steps , to a large degree, of the 1899 Harriman expedition of Alaska. It does get a little confusing a times when they author/traveler of this retracing, veers off into other trips that were taken by those 1899 members, most notably John Muir.

This is the tale of Mark Adams retracing the 1899 Harriman expedition. As he makes this journey it is a history of John Muir and his thoughts about global warming. Mark traveled 3000 miles and explored extensively around Glacier Bay. This was an historic look at the wilds of Alaska. I'm not a big reader of non-fiction and biographies but this was an interesting tale. I received a copy of this ARC in exchange for a fair and honest review.

A Voyage on the Alaskan Marine Highway Systemn

Mark Adams, a travel writer, was looking for a new adventure. One of the key moments in deciding where to go was seeing a totem pole at a busy intersection in Seattle, Washington. This pole was brought to the city after the Alaskan voyage of Edward H. Harriman and his crew of natural scientists in 1899.

Adams was taken by the description of the Harriman voyage. Harriman, a railroad tycoon, with the help of Merriam, editor of Forest and Stream, gathered a stellar group of naturalists to explore the outer reaches of the Alaskan wilderness from a steamship. The voyage was one of the major expeditions to Alaska and produced a multi-volume work on the terrain, animals, and vegetation.

Adams voyage followed the Harriman route, but used the public ferry system, the Alaska Marine Highway System. Like the Harriman expedition, he encountered incredible scenery, unusual characters and wildlife, including bears.

If you’re an armchair traveler, this is an excellent book. Not only does it follow the Harriman expedition, but Adams adds commentary from his adventure and includes information on economic conditions, as well as the history of the areas he visits. I particularly enjoyed his description of glaciers and the fact that they were receding in the 1800’s well before our current climate crisis.

I received this book from Dutton for this review.

Adams has a gift for this sort of writing, and while Tip of the Iceberg is not nearly as hilarious as Turn Right at Machu Picchu, it is still a very enjoyable read. As with the Peruvian pilgrimage I have some familiarity with the subject of this travelogue. Adams captures the hugeness, the isolation, the uniqueness and, yes, the weirdness of Alaska. Of course, there is the beauty, too -- of Denali and the incredible mountain vistas -- as well as the drab, dated, domestic settlements along the Inside Passage. Adams alternates chapters detailing his own journey with others giving historical context. The result is readable, informative and mostly amusing.

I really enjoyed this book, which is unsurprising since it includes everything I like reading about: travel, history, and the author retracing the steps of an expedition. Adams shines in the retelling of the Harriman Expedition and the sharing of his own travels throughout Alaska.

Makes you want to head for Alaska! The author retraces an Alaskan voyage from 1899. Interesting characters, humorous stories, and some insights into what the future may hold. A fun read.

"Tip of the Iceberg" is a book that readers settle into. The action of this book matures with subtle grace similar to the style of Jack London. There is no necessity for no cinematic or contemporary action that incessantly assaults the senses. Through "Tip of the Iceberg" readers are able to enjoy the full journey Mark Adams undergoes to follow Edward H. Harriman's 1988 Alaskan expedition. Thoroughly enjoyed the full descriptions Adams provided of his journey and all the historical background provided to readers.

I thought I would find this book interesting but alas, I do not. The first chapter was minimally engaging but unfortunately I grew tired of this one pretty quickly.. this was a DNF for me but I can definitely see where it would have a very select audience.

This travel memoir/history book will likely be a hit with Alaska enthusiasts, but an occasional armchair traveler, I found the book to be slow and it didn’t hold my attention.

Alaska. Just the name evokes images of glaciers, grizzly bears and solitude. Ask almost any American man where they would live, given the choice, and they will answer’ Alaska”. I have to admit that as a woman who already lives in a cold and quiet place (no grizzlies in Maine though), I have always been perplexed. Sure, it’s beautiful, but it’s also cold and dark for a good portion of the year. the I read Tip of the Iceberg and I began to understand the allure. Adams follows a route set out in 1899 by Edward Harriman when the railroad baron turned a boat into a a sort of artist’s colony for writers and scientists. His adventures along the way, the people her meets, the incredible wildlife he encounters, made me understand the desire people have to see Alaska. But those mosquitoes…………