The Last Collection by Jeanne Mackin is a 2019 Berkley publication.

Interesting, Highly absorbing look at the lives of two fashion icons

Paris- 1938

Lily Sutter, an art teacher and grieving widow, accepts her brother, Charlie’s invitation to visit him in Paris. Once there, meets Charlie’s girlfriend, Ania, a woman who is trapped in a loveless marriage. Through her, Lilly finds herself involved with both Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli, two highly competitive fashion designers.

The two women couldn’t be more different. The rivalry between them is very intense, even violent on occasion. However, the encroaching war spotlights their political disagreements as both prepare themselves for undeniable change. Lily finds herself caught up in their intrigue, narrating the story from her first- person perspective.

The author did a great job at weaving the political climate into a story centered around headstrong women and the colorful world of fashion. The sadness and fear that permeates Paris is palpable, which gives the story an extra layer of tension and poignancy.

To be honest, I’ve never had much interest in learning about the lives of fashion industry icons. I know book have been written and movies have been made about Coco Chanel, and like many other women I keep a bottle of Chanel 5 on my dresser. Other than that, I knew very little about her, but had heard rumors that she was a Nazi sympathizer- but never pursued the rumor.

Schiaparelli? I’m afraid I was only vaguely aware of this designer, and I think I may not be totally alone in that. For me this novel was fascinating, and I quickly found myself absorbed in the tactics the two designers resorted to in order to one up the other one.

While the antics of the Chanel and Schiaparelli is interesting- I can’t say I felt much compassion or empathy for them, although I did find their characters enthralling. I did, however, emotionally invest myself in Charles, Ania, and Lily’s segments of the book, which I thought was the most compelling part of the story.

As to the historical accuracy goes, I feel the author has done her homework, but because this is fiction, many of the inner thoughts provided are most likely speculative. As with any historical fiction novel, I’m also sure that some liberties were taken. However, because I’m so unfamiliar with the topic at hand, I can’t speak to that.

What I do know is that I found this story engrossing and thought provoking and enjoyed the approach the author took, giving Lily a chance to embrace her artistic nature and maybe find a second chance at love in the aftermath of so much tragedy and turmoil.

This was a very nice change of pace from the usual world war two inspired historical fiction that has become so popular this year. Even if you are not interested in fashion, the history, politics, and Paris location will soon draw you into the story and keep you engaged and invested in the drama from beginning to end!

4 stars

Great historical fiction about Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel. Use of the character Lily to tie their stories together was interesting and her story gave a different viewpoint of France entering WWII, though I enjoyed each perspective. The author's use of color in the descriptions of fashion and scenery was so rich. The amount of research that went into this book, as described in the author's note was appreciated, as always.

Unfortunately this one was just not for me, I think my expectations for the narrative were just straight-up different than this book's premise, and that probably reflected more on my personal taste than a failure of the book itself. But I was hoping for more fashion and coming-of-age, while this erred more on the side of dark WWII romance. I didn't really feel as if the history of these figures was explored as much as I had hoped, and I was frankly uncomfortable with the idea of romanticizing Nazis who "disagreed with Hitler" especially considering that Coco Chanel herself was a Nazi spy who took great care to erase her actions from the public record, which has basically erased that truth from the public's perception of her.

For those interested in historical stories, fashion icons, Paris, and WWI this will definitely appeal to you. I enjoyed reading about the famous people that were part of Chanel and Schiaparelli‘s world. I found
Lily’s experience with her second husband rather boring, I’d have preferred her to have remained true to her first husband.

I received a copy of this title via NetGalley in exchange for an honest review, but I actually listened to the audio edition.

This book was so much more then a retelling of the rivalry between Schiaparelli and Chanel. It captured the essence of Paris and the importance of art. It spoke of love and desire and the lengths one will go to in order to achieve them. Mackin also guides the reader through the evolution of Paris and art both during and after WWII. This may seem to be a redundant statement but there is a distinct before, during, and after for each element. The reflective sections of the book provide the reader with the time necessary to absorb everything. The details of a fashion collection or the intensity of color mirrored the attitudes evident in society. The book is enjoyable perhaps for the very reason that it doesn't provide all of the aspects of the relationship between Schiaparelli and Chanel. The Last Collection refers not only to the last fashion collection but to the last of the way of life in Paris before WWII and the shift in society's acceptance for and of culture.

I'm happy to finally have finished this one.

This sounded so good and interesting and a topic that I wasn't familiar with at all (PLUS WW2 themes) sign me up! This book fell flat real quick and I'm glad that it's over.

The story is told from a random perspective of Lily, who goes to Paris to visit her brother Charles and befriends Elsa (Schiap) and Coco. She gets involved in the middle of the feud and a love affair between her brother and Ania- a gorgeous married woman. Hitler is invading other countries and it's only a matter of time before Paris is invaded.

Way too much going on to believe these storylines and too many threads that left me uninterested and made it hard to continue picking this book up. I couldn't connect with any of these characters and even found the feud boring. This one just missed the mark for me.

The writing style was really amazing as well as the characters But I actually didn't like the story that much , couldn't connect with the characters either .
When I started reading , I was so excited but ended up really disappointed at the end of the book .

Lily Sutter is an art teacher at an all girls school. Her brother Charlie telegrams her, asking her to come visit him in Paris. The thought of going to Paris might just be what she needs, as she is still reeling from the passing of her husband Allen. It is in Paris that she meets two amazing designers, although quite different in style, Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli (Schiap).

Much of this story revolves around archrivals Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli. Oh boy, there is no love lost here between these two women! Elsa is larger than life, her clothes are humorous and playful. She believes that clothing is art, not just fashion. Coco’s clothes are beautiful, serious, and not overly embellished. She believes all a woman needs is a good fit and the right fabric. As different as these two designers are, both are extremely talented, ambitious, and determined.

There is so much more to this story than this interesting battle of fashion. France is on the verge of entering the war and the city of Paris is bracing itself for the unknown. Lily is using her time in Paris to heal from the loss of her husband and slowly but surely is even finding joy in painting once again.

This was an enjoyable read. If you love historical fiction with Paris as your backdrop and a bit of romance, then this is the book for you!

In 1939, Lily, a young American widow living in London with her former brother-in-law, receives a telegram from her brother, Charlie, to meet him in Paris. Lily meets Charlie and falls in love with Paris for the second time, as the first time was with her husband, Allen. She decides to make it her home, working for famous fashion designers Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel in the years before the second World War breaks out. The two women are bitter rivals, but both help Lily live in the beautiful city and make a life for herself. Lily hasn't painted since Allen's death, but she picks up a brush and begins to prepare for a possible gallery showing. She falls in love with a German solider, Otto, but loses him when the war breaks out and she returns home to New York City. How can Lily face loss again after losing her husband and her parents so young?

A wonderful WWII era novel, with lovely descriptions of Paris and all the famous sights. I love when an author assist me in visiting a city, without ever leaving my home and dealing with TSA. I could smell the croissants and cigarette smoke, hear the ladies laughing and the jazz music, and see the vivid colors and beautiful clothing described in the novel. Despite many sad turn of events, Lily is a survivor and continues to see the positive in her life. Her hopefulness is contagious and leaves you with a harmonious feeling in the end.

This fascinating, detailed historical novel details one of most intense rivalries in the world of haute coutour. Most people today still recognize the name Coco Chanel, thanks to her perfume and purses that are still highly sought after and every expensive. Every woman who has a little black dress in her closest has Coco to thank.

But the world has largely forgotten Elsa Schiaparelli. Know has Schiap, her designs were outrageous. Sporting vivd colors and geometric patterns, to me, the surreal and experimental clothing sounded extremely uncomfortable. Imagine wearing a har shaped like a shoe?

In 1938-39, the two women were fighting for dominance in the fashion world. Paris was getting ready for a war that would surely come. And although the book is based on the two real-life women, it is narrated by a completely fictional character: Lily Sutter.

Lily is a young American widow, still traumatized by the sudden death of her husband two years earlier. She receives a telegram from her brother, Charlie, who is living in Paris, urging her to come. After a bit of consideration, she packs her bags and grabs the nearest steamer. He is dismayed by her wardrobe and offers to buy her a dress, inparticulary a Chanel design. However, Lily prefers Schiaparelli. When Charlie must divert his girlfriend/model who is joining them from Coco’s house to Schiap’s house, Lilly ges drawn into the raging battle.

Lilly actually becomes friends with both women. Lilly has a flair all her own. She goes undercover at the Chanel house for Schiap.A secret-shopper type of spy. Then over at Coco’s, Lilly begins to believe that Coco’s politics and loyalties might not lie with the French. Or do they?

One of the most shocking events of the novel is when Schiap, Coco and Lilly are at the same gala and Coco pushes her rival too close to the candle flame which sets her costume on fire.

I really like the use of lots of color in the descriptions throughout the novel. The book is divided into three parts: Blue, Red and Yellow. The color descriptions left the imagery dancing in my mind.

As much as I loved this book, it had a slow, slow start. I was about 100 pages in before it really grabbed my by the throat and wouldn’t let go. And that’s why “The Last Collection: A Novel of Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel” receivs 4 out of 5 stars in Julie’s world.

Reeling from the loss of her husband, American artist Lily accepts an invitation to visit her brother in Paris. Before she knows it, her short trip turns into two years, as she's swept into the competitive and luxurious world of fashion. She becomes a friend and confidante to the two most famous designers (and rivals) in Paris: Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli.

I imagine that anyone who loves fashion history, Paris, or WWII historical fiction would enjoy this book. It's atmospheric and transports you to a more glamorous time, certainly. I love the framing of Chanel and Schiaparelli as opposites and rivals, but Lily's role in it felt very contrived to me. She was also perhaps the least compelling character in the book, so it seems like a missed opportunity to frame so much of it around her. But overall, I definitely learned some new pieces of history.

I wasn't convinced I actually wanted to read this book when I received an invitation to the e-galley and tour. I find this time period interesting, but it's definitely not an era I read in much. So I added it to my e-reader with bland disinterest and opened it with the intention of reading a few sentences to try to hype myself into reading it, eventually.

And I was hooked. Ravenously. I couldn't stop reading. I put aside the books I was already in the middle of reading and dove in.

There was so much that just clicked with me about this book. The sense of time and place. The fabrics, smells, and tensions were thick in the air. I felt utterly immersed. We see Schiap and Chanel from the periphery and this made them both seem larger than life, known-but-mysterious. It was captivating. Their clothing collections, their political movements, their social circles, and their bitter, invigorating rivalry...ah, I loved every minute of it.

The main character is one of those somewhat bland, somewhat sympathetic, somewhat relatable characters. We see the story through her eyes, and while I often don't like this narrative device, sometimes I really love it and this is one of those times. Her own tragic story tugged at my heartstrings and her tentative and slow burn reawakening romance was quietly engrossing. I loved how both Schiap and Coco gave her clothes. This was like the sartorial equivalent of reading a book about an old Gothic mansion and vicariously possessing it.

There are almost three stories here: Schiap and Coco's rivalry, the main character's tragedy and romance, and the onset of WWII. The latter simmers in the background in the beginning, slowly pushing its way more and more into the story until it cannot be ignored, much like I imagine the onset of the war would have felt at the time. I loved the feelings of the book, the subtle and mounting tension of the war, the crackling razor edges of the rivalry, so prominent at first and then shattering under the weight of the war, the stupor of tragedy and magical awakening of love and healing.

Another aspect I loved were the constant references to art and color. The main character is a painter, Schiap and Coco use fabric and perfume as their canvas. I Googled many paintings referenced, immersed myself in colors, imagined the feel of different fabrics, looked up images of referenced clothing collections, smelled the referenced perfumes. This book was an unexpected sensory delight.

This is definitely a book I can see having a love or hate reaction from readers. If it clicks with you like it did with me, then you're in for a fantastic treat. If not, then I can definitely see this one boring readers. In that way it reminded me of Sally Beauman's The Visitors, which is another book I was sucked into and think about long after having finished it.

Review The Last Collection
The setting is Paris in 1944. Lily, a recent young widow, was asked to come from her job in a boarding school in England to see her brother, Charles, in Paris. Both of them had lived in Paris previously but now Charles was a medical student in Boston.

When Lily arrived she discovered that Charles had a lover, Ania, who was married to a wealthy man. Ania was a customer of Coco Chanel but Lily was able to lure her to Elsa Schiaparelli’s salon. Schiaparelli’s daughter Gogo, had been a student at the school where Lily worked and Lily had been Gogo’s favorite teacher. Eventually Schiaparelli (Schiap) offered Lily a job using her talent as an artist to decorate the windows of the shop.

Tensions were heightened in Europe where Hitler was taking over one country after another. Both Chanel and Schiap, fierce competitors, were vying for customers as one by one those with the means were leaving the country before the approach of the Germans. Charles had returned to his studies in Boston but Lily stayed on in her adopted city. Ania went to the US to live with Charles after her husband agreed to give her a divorce. However she returned to France as her husband would not honor the shared custody agreement they made over her young daughter.

After the Germans arrived in Paris, Ania and Gogo started doing undercover work for the Resistance. Otto, the German soldier with whom Lily had a liaison, was transferred from his job as a driver for an important German officer back to Germany.

Lily had been a painter but stopped after her husband’s sudden death. She started painting again and eventually returned to her home in New York to live with Charles. The war ended but neither Chanel or Schiap were able to regain their customers. Each showed a final collection of clothes for their wealthy customers.,

This is a historical fiction book and the author based many of the characters on real people. Many of the events were also historical accurate. The book was well researched. This is the second book that I have read recently about Paris right before and during World War II. I enjoyed the book but have one criticism: most of the younger men were strikingly handsome. I have nothing against attractive male characters but felt there should have been some ordinary men as well.

This ARC was made available by Net Galley and the publisher in exchange for an honest review.

My Highly Caffeinated Thought: A vivid tale filled with heart, banter, strong women, and fashion.

THE LAST COLLECTION is historical fiction at its best. Cloaked in Mackin’s eloquence and effortless writing style, this book shows the strength, intelligence, and passion of three women throughout the time before and after World War II.

What I love about this book is that it is so much more than the story of Coco Chanel and Elsa Schiaparelli. When I started it, I thought it was going to be predominantly the ins and outs of these two famous designer’s lives as well as their collections during that time. However, what the author gave us was much richer by letting us see it all through Lily’s eyes. Her character became the reader’s way to experience the world of France during the late 1930s.

While reading, I was able to immerse myself in the fashion and the whimsy all the while knowing the reality surrounding all those I encountered in the book. The balance of the pre/post-war life and fashion is a crucial part of this book. It amazed me how the author expertly wove together all the elements with characters just as fabulous their real-life counterparts. I know I never was able to meet the great Coco Chanel or Elsa Schiaparelli, but the time I spent with them in this book made me feel like I did.

If you are a fashionista, a historical fiction lover, or just someone who loves a good story, this is the book for you. It will give you all the drama and emotions you could want as it entertains and enchants you.

4.25 STARS

A beautifully written novel highlighting two famous fashion designer icons. The gossip and rivalry was ever so entertaining and at times even shocking!

The Paris setting was fascinating as tensions were building as Germany and Hitler were on the move towards France. It was a dangerous time in history. I was curious how the designers would react to the invasion.

The novel follows Lily Sutter, an American teacher who travels to Paris to visit her brother. She becomes a focus between the two iconic designers and their fued is escalated and the cat fighting becomes quite intense.

I enjoyed learning about their very different personalities and styles. Shiaparelli was more playful and edgy while Chanel was the legend of classic, elegant pieces.

I found this novel intriguing and at times gripping with a cast of strong personalities. A bit of glamour, some humor and a reminder of the dangerous period when Hitler was invading countries.

Fans of fashion and historical fiction will be thrilled with this one!

Jeanne Mackin’s The Last Collection is a fascinating historical fiction novel that explores the fierce rivalry between iconic fashion designers Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel. Set in Paris in the years leading up to World War II, The Last Collection drew me in right away with its lush descriptions of Paris and of the glamorous haute couture designs that Paris’ most well known ladies were wearing. I’m not even that big into fashion but the author so vividly describes the fashion scene in 1930s Paris that I felt like I had truly been transported there.

While the Paris setting is a huge draw, what really makes this such a captivating read is the rivalry between Schiaparelli and Chanel. Mackin does a wonderful job of portraying just how fierce this legendary rivalry really was, especially their attitude that Paris wasn’t big enough for both of them. Rather than be happy for each other’s success, Schiaparelli and Chanel truly hated one another and they each went out of their way to try to tear the other down. Just reading about the little things they would do to get under each other’s skin made this such an engrossing and entertaining read. Whether it was sending spies over to each other’s studios or throwing around downright catty insults about each other’s designs, both Schiaparelli and Chanel took great delight in keeping each other riled up.

In The Last Collection, this rivalry extends to Lily Sutter, a young American woman staying in Paris, who both designers end up befriending. The story is actually told from Lily’s perspective and it’s so fascinating to watch this rivalry play out through her eyes as she basically becomes a pawn in their game. Each designer wants to dress her in their garments but then send her over to the rival studio just to rub it in that she’s not wearing their clothing, etc.

Schiaparelli and Chanel were both strong, talented and successful business women, but that’s pretty much where the resemblance between them ended. They were polar opposites in many ways. When it came to fashion, Schiaparelli favors bright colors and whimsical designs, while Chanel favored classic and elegant designs. And when it came to politics, Schiaparelli was known to sympathize with Communists, while Chanel was known to associate with Nazis.

The politics were also a huge area of interest for me while I was reading The Last Collection. Mackin does a beautiful job weaving the politics of the day, including the rise of Hitler and the start of WWII, into her story and showing how these things impacted Paris, the fashion industry, as well as Schiaparelli and Chanel personally. I loved the added depth the politics lent to the story.

The Last Collection is an engaging read that I’d highly recommend to those who love couture and to readers who enjoy WWII historical fiction.

I absolutely adored this book. It's exactly the kind of novel that makes me passionate about historical fiction. The way the author weaves together the stories of two powerful women through the eyes of her protagonist is excellent. The book makes the period just before WWII come alive. I could see every gown and daysuit and hat and pair of gloves on each character. It makes me want to hop on a one way flight to Paris (or at least buy a tasteful bottle of Chanel No. 5).

The Last Collection: A Novel of Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel by Jeanne Mackin caught my attention as a novel set in Paris during the years leading up and at the beginning of World War II. Although familar with the name Coco Chanel I did not know much about her and had never heard of Schiaparelli so I thought I'd read it.

If you really enjoy fashion and want to read of the rivalry between these two famous Parisian fashion designers, you may find The Last Collection interesting. The idea of so many women having excess millions to spend on clothes in this manner simply boggles my mind and was interesting in that regard. It was also interesting to learn about the influence they had over French and world culture. Beyond the fashion industry angle, this book focuses on Lily and several individuals she meets through her brother, his mistress, and the fashion designers. The plot meanders quite a bit. While Lily does have a romantic interest, their relationship is not the focus of the story. I did not find this book as enjoyable as many others I have read recently although it does depict pre-war France nicely. I would encourage readers to check this one out at the library rather than purchase their own copy if they are looking for something to read.

Disclosure of Material Connection: I received The Last Collection via NetGalley. I was not required to write a positive review. The opinions I have expressed are my own. I am disclosing this in accordance with the Federal Trade Commission’s 16 CFR, Part 255: “Guides Concerning the Use of Endorsements and Testimonials in Advertising.

This book failed to grab my attention from the beginning. Too much inner-monlogue info-dumping at the beginning and generally mediocre writing.

<a href="https://www.facebook.com/watch/?v=821040018081466">Catfight's Are Never Out of Fashion</a>
I have read many novels set during World War II but none told from the perspective of Jeanne Mackin’s <b>The Last Collection: A Novel of Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel</b>. Elsa Schiaparelli and Coco Chanel ruled the fashion world in 1938 Paris. Both of these women had a vision. Both were strong-minded and tough-skinned. Albeit, as business women, they faced and overcame many obstacles. In every other regard, they were polar opposites and arch nemeses. Their intense rivalry highlighted their differences in fashion sense. Chanel’s designs were classic and practical, while Schiaparelli’s collections were inventive and whimsical. Suffice it to say, their influence extended beyond the fashion world and into the political realm as well. With the war looming ahead Schiaparelli and Chanel picked their sides early on. Elsa Schiaparelli held great disdain for Mussolini, Hitler and anything remotely Fascist. Despite recognizing the threat it would bring to her and her daughter, she rebuffed any favors from the Germans and worked along with the resistance. Coco Chanel secured her safety by dating one of the high ranking German generals. Despite England’s stance at the time it was a greater risk for Schiaparelli to be Socialist than it was for Coco Chanel to date a Nazi.

<img src="https://i.pinimg.com/564x/dd/55/5d/dd555de0a1d5a140effb52fbbcc6fe7a.jpg"/>

I want to thank Lauren Horvath from Berkley Publicity for sending me this book. It would never have occurred to me to pick up a book about fashion but I was pleasantly surprised. I gained a new perspective on that time period and found her description of Paris in the 30s enthralling. The frivolity and abandon enjoyed by the rich and politically connected was like the calm before the storm. I also appreciated Mackin’s choice of Lily Cooper as a narrator. Using an unassuming young widow as the narrator gave a voice to the poorer class and served the purpose of allowing the reader to see their bitter rivalry from a neutral standpoint. Would recommend this book to historical fiction buffs.