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The Hunt for Mount Everest

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This fascinating book tells the story of the early days of the exploration of Everest. Whilst most books focus on the 1953 summit of Everest by Sir Edmund Hillary & Sherpa Tenzing Norgay, or tales of subsequent adventures, this book starts many years earlier & culminates in 1921, where most other narratives start!
The story starts when the English Empire was at its height, and tells the story of the struggle to find the mountain and a way to its base, which of course had to be done before it could be climbed! I had naively assumed that the mountain was not conquered sooner due to lack of gear (clothing, oxygen etc) or similar, but in fact whilst surveyors could see the high peak from some distance away and assumed that it may be the world's tallest, they couldn't actually get to it because the countries it borders, Tibet and Nepal, were closed to foreigners. Today, most ascents of Everest use the Nepalese southern side of the mountain, however in the early 20th century, Nepal was completely closed to foreigners. This left the Tibetan North side, and a friendship between the 13th Dalai Lama & Charles Bell, who had spent many years working for the Viceroy of India in Lhasa, resulted in an entry pass being granted for the expedition.
The book follows the rather ramshackle group as they map & survey the hitherto unexplored area, and translated the skills they had gained in the Alps to the very different terrain and altitude of Himalayan climbing. Along the way there are unexpected moments of politics, imperialism and upper-class privilege mixed in with the adventure, and this brought some slightly uneasy moments that wouldn’t happen today when we have a better understanding of other cultures & respect all people as equals. We also see the very real perils of such adventures as various members of the group become ill or injured, and how a mistake with fitting camera plates resulted in 2 “lost days” where they had to retrace their steps to retake key images rather than continuing to explore that unusual little stream (which could well have resulted in the discovery of the East Rongbuk Glacier and a way to the summit sooner!)
However, George Mallory and Guy Bullock became the first westerners, and likely the first humans, to set foot on Mount Everest, and their explorations & challenging climbs resulted in discovery of a potential route to the summit via the North-East Ridge, paving the way for future adventures and of course the famous summit in 1953. 100 years on from this initial discovery/exploration of Everest, it’s time that some of the names of those who did the initial, and very critical, exploratory work are remembered as widely as those of Edmund Hillary & Tenzing Norgay!
It did take me a couple of attempts to get into the book, but once I did, I just wanted to keep reading! It’s not so much a pick up & put down type book but one to read a chunk at a time as there are a lots of dates, names & facts to absorb but the excellent research is what makes it such an absorbing & interesting book.
Overall, an absolutely fascinating read that covers history that I have never encountered before, and I highly recommend it to anyone with an interest in 20th Century history, the British Empire, mountaineering, and much more.

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Fascinating and colourful look at the finding and climbing of Everest. We are taken on a journey looking at the geopolitical situation in the area and how relations were between locals, the British and notably the Russians. The history of conquering peaks, be they in the Alps or around Everest was clearly outlined in a novel way. The story centres on Younghusband and we start and end with him and his exploits and comments. A lot of dates and names to contend with which doesn’t always make for a fluid read, but an interesting one.

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A painstakingly-researched meticulously-detailed historical account of the decades-long quest to the foot of the roof of the world's Peak XV filled with political intrigue, hobnobbing empire representatives, and suspenseful mountaineering set against the historical backdrop of pre-WWI colonial power-wrangling and interrupted by two world wars. Though not light reading, the journey sheds light on the unique physical and psychological challenges particular to the surveying and summiting of Everest. A book for a rarified crowd, detail-oriented history buffs will relish this reference complete with bibliography and index that culminates with George Mallory's marveling at the terrific geologic behemoth.

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I wish I could have connected better with the writing style of this author; I am fascinated by the subject matter but just couldn't get into this one.

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Many books have been written about the attempts to climb Everest. However, this book takes us back to basics, to the struggle to even find the mountain and a route up it. We begin with a history of gaining access, as Tibet and Nepal refused foreign visitors for decades. We learn about the British Government's attempts, via India, to gain access for mapping and surveys, and the brave men who developed the skills they had gained in the Alps to the very different terrain and altitude of Himalayan climbing.

I was left saddened that the names of men like Alexander Kellas have disappeared from history, despite having done an incredible amount of work to survey the area and being so committed to the Himalaya. His death before he could even assist Mallory in the 1921 expedition was incredibly sad, but it was fitting he was buried in sight of the mountain he never climbed. Equally, the mountain should really have been named after George Mallory and not the surveyor George Everest, who, along with another forgotten climber Guy Bullock, was the first to set foot on the mountain itself.

Occasionally the chapter structure leaps around rather oddly, but over all it is a thorough and interesting account of how determined men were to climb the world's highest peak.

Thank you to NetGalley and Nicholas Brealey US for allowing me access to the ARC in exchange for an honest review.

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The Hunt for Mount Everest by Craig Storti tells the history of how Everest got its name, it’s title as the “tallest mountain in the world”, and how the English got the rights to climb it. Mr. Storti is a published author, and a businessman specializing in “intercultural communications and cross-cultural adaptation”.

This is not the standard book about Mt. Everest. The story starts when the English Empire was at its height, and ends before the famous 1953 expedition when Tenzing Norgay and Edmund Hillary reached the summit.

The history of this most famous mountain is fascinating, and includes a whole bunch of colorful characters. In 1850 explorers already realized that the mountain might be the tallest in the world, but the closes they ever got to it was 40 miles away, for the next 71 years.

There were names I heard of like that of George Mallory, the 13th Dalai Lama, and George Everest. However, there were many I didn’t hear of such as Lord Curzon, Edward Whymper, Charles Bell, and to my surprise Francis Younghusband who contributed much to history.

The author doesn’t spend time on trivialities, but does tell the relevant parts of the story. A huge task when it comes to history, where sometimes a little, nuanced, action has large consequences.

I’m sure I’m not the only one that has a pull to Mt. Everest. This can be seen by the list of books about it – along with mountaineering. This one, however, is an important book for those of us who want to more than just climbing adventures. These men who traversed continents and suffered hardships have interesting tales. Egos aside, they helped shape history, and the world as we know it.

Even though this book is from a European centric viewpoint, Mr. Storti does honor to the local population. He tells how they viewed the English, and of course, how the English mostly ignored their wishes or cultures.

The Hunt for Mount Everest by Craig Storti is a very enjoyable book, as it gives an interesting overview and history to the 1953 historic climb. While Hillary and Norgay get much deserved credit and fame, none of it would have happened if it the people in this book didn’t pave the way.

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One of my dirtiest secrets is that I love to read books about white dudes doin' an explore. I mean, most of the time I prefer to read about the ones that go horribly wrong, true (see my recent review of Madhouse at the End of the Earth), but that miasma of adventure and exploration that wafts off of the Victorian and Edwardian eras will sometimes just lodge itself into my brain and stick there. One of the most enjoyable things about this dirty secret, however, is that recently, there have been a glorious spate of books about all this - let's face it - colonialism that have been told with a wink and a nod, openly calling out all the horrible shit these dudes did and allowing themselves to be each their own lesson on why it is, in fact, a bad look to march into someone else's home and ask, "But do you have a flag?" They tell the undeniably interesting stories and histories from a more aware perspective, which, in my opinion, only makes those tales of adventure all the more riveting. And kind of funny. Schadenfreude is a bitch.

This was not one of those books.

Normally, these types of books fall into two categories: the one I mentioned above, the modern, culturally-aware kind that manages to sneak in a couple of laughs; or, of course, the Good Old Boys, the stories that glorify all the pillaging the British Empire and its questionable mustaches did. The Hunt for Mount Everest was... neither. It seemed to come from a modern point of view where obviously the starchy invasion of countries where the people were just fine without your so-called civilizing influence is a bad thing. But it also seemed to come from a place of almost willful naiveté when it came to the impact that the Raj and indeed the whole idea of "exploring exotic lands" might have had on the Himalayan region. The best example I can give is that, in a section about naming (or, more accurately, ignoring the well-established Tibetan name of Chomolunga that the British definitely knew about but were just racist enough to pretend that they were doing the local people some kind of favor when they renamed) Mount Everest, Craig Storti presents first-hand sources and accounts of contemporary research into the name of the mountain, and then explains how the British were kind of just like, "Yeah, but nah," without making a single comment about this colonial pattern of behavior. No opinion, no investigation, no nothing. Just, as they say, the facts, ma'am.

You can't write a book like this... like that. What that says to me is that you're trying to avoid what you, the author, feel might be a political landmine, or might alienate some readers, or you're genuinely not well-informed enough to have an opinion about. If that's the case, then you really don't have any business, in the year of sweet lord 2021, writing a book about Mount Everest. First of all, it's been done. Second of all, if aversion to inflammatory topics is your excuse, then you're complicit, and if it's because you aren't well-informed enough on the topic, it is literally your job to ask. You're literally writing a book on the topic.

So yeah. This definitely didn't sit right with me and when I realized I was half of the way in and it was still reading like an introduction, I came to the conclusion that the problem was more integral than the plot itself was. Two stars because the historical facts are, indeed, very thorough. It just rings more than a little hollow, man.

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This was the best, most unexpected read of the year for me. I thought I was going to read about mountaineering but found myself reading a political thriller complete with British adventurism, the Great Game, imperialism, and, of course, the emergence of mountaineering as a sport. It was funny and informative and vast in scape. Highly recommended.

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It did take me a chapter or so to get into this book, but this was because I was picking it up and putting it down a lot. It’s a book that you need to take in good time chunks I feel.

Once I sat down and focussed properly I really started to get into this, then it became unputdownable…

It’s absolutely fascinating, from what these men achieved, to the downright unbelievable “colonial Britishness attitude”. I’ve learnt a lot from this book, and also did a lot of image searches on the internet to really help me understand exactly what they faced.

Just fascinating!

My thanks to Netgalley and the publisher for the advance copy in exchange for an honest review

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A fantastic addition to mountaineering literature.

This book is set apart, as the author himself points out, by focussing on the years leading up to the first attempt on Chomolungma, rather than an on the first successful attempt. Storti vividly recreates the time period and the feverish excitement that was whipped up in the early years of the 20th Century as not only Geographers and explorers became interested in 'the Third Pole' but the British Imperial Government too. The author carefully sets the unfolding events against the backdrop of events that it subtly influenced, for example the Great Game and British control of India in a way that is informative but engaging for the reader and political developments are talked about in just enough detail to keep the reader's interest while not verging into a history lecture.

My only criticisms are that it is rather Western-centric and it would have been nice to know what interactions local people in the area had with the mountain before and after the first attempts to summit Everest. I do accept that the author tries to address some of this but we were told the French were already printing about the mountain long before it's 'discovery' so I would have appreciated further explanation of this avenue, Additionally, towards the end the narrative became a little overwrought and could have done with some editing to keep pace and excitement.

Overall I would highly recommend this not only to those interested in mountaineering but with how exploration has political implications or those with a sheer love of adventure!

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If you've read and enjoyed books on climbing Mount Everest, you'll want to read this book. This well-researched and comprehensive book tells the stories of how Mount Everest was discovered and first explored. There's quite a bit of information on major surveying projects by the British at the turn of the twentieth century as well as information on the early history of mountaineering.

Even after reading "Into Thin Air" and similar books on attempts to summit Mount Everest, I learned a lot about the mountain that I didn't know and that surprised me. I did not know that Mount Everest had not even been seen by Westerners until well into the twentieth century. I also did not know that mountains were once considered "deserts" and were avoided by most people. Now that mountains have become popular with tourists and adventurers, it was eye opening to learn that these are new developments in human culture.

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My thanks to NetGalley and the publisher Nicholas Brealey US for an advanced copy of this new historical tome.

Before anyone could climb Mount Everest they, meaning the British, first had to find it. Qomolangma or Chomolungma as the Tibetans called the mountain, had been an obsession for quite a long time, after the first estimates of its height were made. In The Hunt for Mount Everest, Craig Storti has written a very engaging history on the history of Everest quests and why so many people were driven to make this adventure.

Mr. Storti's book covers the growth of Alpine climbing, its techniques and allure to the British and a biography on many of the major names in climbing history. The book also covers the British in India, the Great Game, an early cold war with Russia over control of the Indian subcontinent and the opening of Tibet, which I didn't know much about, and the massive amount of casualties that entailed. I learned quite a lot from this book about many diverse subjects, even before the English explorers made it finally to Everest.

The book is very interesting with clear concise explanations of many different subjects from politics, to the use Indian computers, trained mathematicians used to figure height and distance, and the mathematics branch of geometry. The cast of characters is eclectic and odd, as most British explorers tended to be. The derring-do is exciting, and the elation you feel reading about finally getting close to their great white mountain is elating. A fascinating book for armchair explorers and climbers, or for people who enjoy well written histories and love to learn new things.

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When Everest was first measured in 1850 and found to be the highest mountain in the world, the westerners became obsessed with conquering it by climbing to the top. They quickly discovered that this was not going to be straight forward for a number of reasons. First they had to convince the Nepalese and the Tibetans to let them into their countries so they could actually access the mountain that straddled these countries. Understandably due to the British obsession with conquering countries for their empires, these countries were not going to just roll over and let the British march in. Second, they had to calculate if human beings could actually survive at the altitude of Everest. Third they had to establish a route to take. Fourth they had to develop the expertise to climb the mountain as they quickly discovered that the Alps they had been used to climbing were like little hills compared to the Andes. Fifth they needed to calculate what supplies they would need for the journey and how to get those supplies up the biggest mountain in the world. These were just the practicalities. There were political implications too. In fact the story of how Mallory and Bullock even got to step foot on Everest is a long, complex and utterly fascinating one. I really enjoyed this because it was so different from all the other books on Everest. I learned so much about the history, politics and even the geography of Everest. Brilliant.

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I never thought before of all the events that led to summiting Everest. All I knew was how in 1953 two men reached the top of the world, so I was happy to read more about the history that surrounds Mount Everest from the moment people measured it to the moment they tried to climb it in 1921. I recommend this book to anyone who is interested in mountaineering and history as well.

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Wow, this is quite an educational story of the discovery and desire to reach the summit of Mount Everest. My first suggestion is to either get a piece of paper or make notes on your Kindle to help keep track of the characters or timeframes. The author has performed wonderful research of all the players that are involved in this quest. The story covers many years, events, and happenings.
My next suggestion is to not give up, the beginning starts out with a lot of calculations and numbers but this is certainly worth the read if you go for the long haul. The desire, tenacity, devotion and dedication these adventurers had is absolutely remarkable. I thoroughly enjoyed this read. Highly recommend especially if you like mountain climbing.
I received an ARC from Nicholas Brealey US along with NetGalley for my honest review. This one comes in with 5 stars.

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An engaging and comprehensive overview of early English attempts to scout and climb Everest. Any good historical nonfiction must make history come alive, and Storti succeeds by showing both the deeds and personalities of the principal actors. The history concludes with the British 1921 expedition--I would have happily kept reading had the book covered the subsequent expeditions. Small nitpicks are that I'm not sure about calling Younghusband a "hero" or using the masculine pronoun for Jan Morris even in a historical context. Thanks to Netgalley and the publisher for the opportunity to read and review this book.

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This is an astonishing book - combining the real-politic of the British empire with the derring-do of Francis Younghusband and the path to opening up the access to Everest through Tibet.
Cruelty, bravery, endurance; climate and conditions which lie at the brink of possibility. And dreams and aspirations which reveal the utopian spirit of the human journey.

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Thanks to Netgalley for an advance copy,
While I wouldn't say I'm a hard-core Everest aficianado I have always been interested in stories about the mountain and the people who climb it. It probably begain with "Into Thin Air" and grew from that. I think it's fair to say that most of what I know is recent history.
The author said he wanted to write "The book that ended where all the other Everest books began." That may seem like it wouldn't be particulary interesting as it's effectively a long prolog, but that is not the case. From the very start with a daring move by Francis Younghusband in Tibet I was hooked. The story is a mix of mountaineering, politics and war with lots of larger than life personalities mixed in. Even though you know it will end before the ultimate climax it is fascinating to see how we got there.
If you are interested in the story of the conquest of Everest I would suggest this is a must read. Then follow with one of the accounts of Mallory and Ivine's failed attempt and then the original "The Conquest of Everest". That's my plan. off I go to do some more reading.

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This book is the story of finding Mount Everest. The finding which ultimately led to the conquest.

The book starts by providing the reader a background in the colonial times of East India Company and how the Great Game was instrumental in the hunt for mount everest. The British exerciseof creating maps of India had a crucial role to play in this hunt. This hunt for mount Everest actually started when some British surveyors at Darjeeling trained their theodolites towards Tibbet and they noticed this tall mountain.
Because of its geo location Mount Everest was practically inaccessible to not only the western world but also to the British India. This inaccessibility also could not stope few individuals from attempting to conquer it.

There are many books out there which have covered the various historical events meantioned in the book, however, there are few books which have stiched these events together and presented as a single integrated event.

Thanks NetGalley and the Publisher for providing an advanced review copy of this book. I thoroughly enjoyed reading this book.

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Appearing a hundred years after two British men became the first Westerners to set foot on Mount Everest, Craig Storti’s The Hunt for Mount Everest offers a rich and colorful history of earlier attempts to understand, assess and reach the fabled pinnacle. The characters and episodes he chronicles are dramatic enough to fill several novels, while his professional background in intercultural communication helps ground his depictions in a nuanced understanding of the always complex and sometimes destructive ways in which Western ambitions intersected with non-Western lands and cultures. A wonderfully rich, dramatic, and thought-provoking read.

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