Cover Image: The Skincare Hoax

The Skincare Hoax

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I didn't start using skincare until a few years ago and I'm almost 50. Gasp...I know! I was a network marketer for a short time for an up and coming cosmetic company who came out with a skincare line and I thought I have to try it but I couldn't afford it so I looked for cheaper versions. My skin is sensitive and I have rosacea so I wanted to be careful what I used. After reading this book, I stopped my quest to find all that stuff and now I only use a moisturizer with sunscreen. Very informative book. Don't be fooled by those expensive skincare regimens.

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I picked this book up because I do have a great interest in skincare, but the information in here was nothing new for me. Regardless, it was still an interesting read. SPF and moisturize always!

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This book was good but not great. I initially picked up this book because I have a love for all things skincare. So I wanted to see if there was new information I should know about what I do for my skin.

The book basically says we don’t necessarily need all of these items, which I totally understand. I just know that I’ve seen a difference in how my skin looks and feels and I enjoy that. So while I do appreciate the author’s opposite perspective, I’m going to keep doing what I’m doing.

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Very interesting perspective on the skincare industry. A very good read.
Thank you NetGalley and the publishers for this ARC for an exchange for a review.

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I love how controversial this topic is. The information in this book seemed to be well researched from somebody working in the field.

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To be absolutely clear with you, I didn’t have high hopes for this book Somehow I was convinced that it would be just a bunch of info dump and nothing useful. But, I will be first to admit, that I was completely wrong.
I think this book is a great starting point for those who wants to learn about and understand skincare. The information in this book is straight to the point, very understandable and easy to follow. There are a lot of suggestions and easy steps to follow.
Even though it is nonfiction it was a page turner and I read it in two days.
I’m so happy that I read it. I definitely recommend giving this one a try.

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This is a refreshing antidote to the messages the beauty industry sends. Dr. Frey cuts to the chase and assures us that no skincare is magical and that SPF and moisturizer are the two best products to use.

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Liberating and oddly controversial.

I will say that Skincare Hoax is repetitive. However, every time that Fayne Frey repeats a claim she uses new studies, examples, and anecdotes to resupport her claims. There are even quotational blurbs on each page to further reiterate the sentiments expressed throughout.

In essence, Frey has taken the science behind fryface.com and extrapolated in a very user-friendly approach to skin care. Without pointing fingers or shame at the consumers she uses her professional experience and studies to debunk the multi-million dollar skin care industry. Even further, she provides numerous examples of ways in which she has been approached about and simultaneously censored for her views. Though I would argue that she treats skin care very pragmatically, the idea that we could simplify and cut costs seems alarmingly revolutionary.

I have been asked to rethink my entire hygiene routine from scalp to toe, and while I am eager to put Frey's observations into practice and see if I can't make my skin healthier as a result I should note- this is coming from someone who already has a minimal (5 min or less) skin care routine. For those who rely on multiple high-end products, Skincare Hoax may be asking for a startling amount of change.

While repetitive, this book was a game changer and has given me a lot to both think about and research further. For anyone who has ever bought into hygiene marketing- this one is for you. Guilt-free.

[Thank you to NetGalley and SkyHorse Publishing for a free copy of this book in exchange for an honest review.]

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Fayne L. Frey, M.D., is the author of THE SKINCARE HOAX. With a medical degree, indepth understanding of chemistry and 30 years as a practicing dermatologist, she is more than qualified to cover the topic of skincare. Dr. Frey’s recommendations are simple and easy to follow and highlight the importance of sunscreen and a quality moisturizer, and how you can use regular tap water as your facial cleanser. Dr. Frey also explains the marketing employed by many cosmetic companies promoting expensive products that contain the same ingredients as more reasonably priced products that are readily available. I especially liked the last three chapters that list some quality sunscreens and moisturizers. In addition, Dr. Frey maintains a free website (fryface.com) that has information on skincare and a product selection guide.

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At first I was a little skeptical, as I always am when a book starts out by listing the author’s credentials. I always wonder, what’s in it for them, what’s their angle…but I was pleasantly surprised with this one.

If you can get past the kind of cringy humour, it actually provided a lot of really good, really actionable advice. I’ve literally been wearing sunscreen every day since reading this book.

I tried out the author’s online quiz for face cream recommendations and it led to the product she most recommends in her book so she clearly believes what she wrote. Overall it was an interesting book.

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As a self-proclaimed skincare junkie, I found this book very eye-opening. Frey goes into great detail about the inaccuracies of what skin care can do and won't do. Packed full of scientific basis and ways to simplify your skincare routine, Frey provides us all with many tips and tricks while opening our eyes to the mistruths spoken each and every day of what certain products will do to make you look younger.

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This book confirms what we probably already know, we don’t need to spend so much or rely on certain products!
I enjoyed reading the scientific aspect of skincare, I wondered about the sensitive side of problem skin conditions! We can’t all race off to the dermatologist, nor can some rely on the suggestions in this book. A little more on the troubled skin side would have made the information provided more rounded.
A thought provoking read allowing decisions on our skincare choices and regime.

Thanks to the publisher, NetGalley and the author for the copy to read and review.
I voluntarily read and reviewed an advanced copy of this book. All thoughts and opinions are my own.

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This book has a lot on information - it does pare down from what all is thrown at us on the market every day to what the bare basics are.
However, this is where it all gets a bit fudged up. There are basics...and then there are basics. Moisturizer and sunscreen, apparently. While there's a 'decent' chapter on sunscreen, I still felt I didn't come out much more informed than going in. We're told what 'works' and what doesn't, apparently, but it is a bit hard to believe that 99.9% of what is being offered in the skincare world is BS - as the author would like us to believe in this book.
The caveat in this one is: 'this' is what you need provided you have 'normal' skin and are not dealing with issues like eczema and such. But what is 'normal' here? Take for example, the statement that you only need warm water at night to wash your face, never mind if you've been inside all day, out in pollution all day (pollution doesn't exist, according to the author - or it doesn't affect your skin/doesn't get on your skin), wearing makeup all day. Or the claim that sleeping without washing your face will only make you end up with a dirty pillowcase.
On these fronts as an example, this was a rather misleading book. If you're going to say you'll only end up with a dirty pillowcase, then at least suggest changing the pillowcase daily because sleeping on something dirty is actually bad for your skin!
No mention of levels of hydration, nutrition, alcohol consumption/smoking not being the best thing for your skin - okay, it is about skincare and the skincare industry, but some balancing of the debate wouldn't have hurt.
There is information to be taken from this book, but it's not the Holy Grail that will answer all your questions, either. Read it for knowledge, maybe, but it's really rather condescending and at times also rude with its 'put you down' tone and know-it-all approach

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This book was equal parts biology book, self-help book, and tell all book. So much of what the author details is common sense and yet we have all been repeatedly duped by marketing and the beauty industry. The author explains what items you truly need for a beauty regimen and it’s shockingly short. She explains how the skin works and how several terms (polishing! Nourishing!) that companies use are just marketing. She gives recommendations for good, affordable products to purchase instead of expensive ones that claim to do things they won’t do. Lastly, she states over and over again that we are all perfect the way we are—lines, sun spots, and all. Now I’m off to go throw out about a dozen bottles of useless junk!

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Do you want to look younger? Do you spend a lot of money on anti-ageing creams, eye creams and neck creams? This book by a qualified dermatologist will tell you how to stop! Cosmetic companies apparently use every trick in the book to sell their products. Fayne L. Frey is a qualified dermatologist who know what is good for skin, and what isn’t. She goes through all the myths about caring for skin, ingredients such as Retinoids, and the latest buzz words, such as ‘nourishing’ and ‘polishing’. She explains how to care for your skin, and suggests the best oroducts to buy.

I found this book very useful. It is especially helpful for anyone who has skin problems, such as eczema.

I received a free ebook from NetGalley in return for an honest review.

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You’ve been doing skincare wrong all your life
And Dr Fayne Frey is here to tell you why, and what to do about it.

This book just completely transformed my entire outlook on skincare products.
No, seriously.

I consider myself a beauty enthusiast - I’m very interested in makeup and skincare, and try to learn more about it as the years go on, but it’s never been my specialty. This is one of the reasons why I often get quite overwhelmed by the amount of different products on the shelves when I go to stores like Sephora - between the eye creams, the moisturizers, primers, SPF foundations, day creams, night creams, essences, toners… I don’t really understand which is which, and what should be put on my face, at what time of the day, for what purpose.

This is the main reason why I picked up this book in the first place : I wanted to understand more about skincare, and make sure I was “doing it right”, so to speak. And oh boy, was I not disappointed.

This book makes you take a long hard look at your makeup and skincare cabinet, and want to throw out at least half of your products. Because guess what ? Apart from sunscreen (SPF 30 or over) and moisturizer, says Dr Frey, everything else is either fake or useless. Fake in the sense that it’s actually a moisturizer in a different packaging (looking at you, eye cream!). Useless in the sense that the claims that are so neatly written on the fancy little tube are unproven, void of any sense, and medically unverifiable.

It seems silly to say so, but I really did believe that face serums could be “anti-aging” and reverse wrinkles. It was written on the glass jar! Surely, marketing wouldn’t lie to me, now, would it?

Yeah. It feels really naïve, when you put it like that. But Dr Frey is here to explain the whole thing to you, step by step, and if there is one thing she seems to be really good at, it’s breaking down the science and the facts for her readers without making you feel inadequate or stupid for not having realized it sooner.

During the entire course of the book, one thing the author insists often upon is self-esteem and appreciation of our own appearance.
In her opinion, women’s poor self-esteem and confidence in their looks are strongly linked to the reasons why we keep buying all these unnecessary products, and why we fall victim to all of these marketing tactics. They’re designed to make us feel bad about ourselves, about how we look - hate the fine lines around our eyes, the softness of our cheeks, the light color differences on certain areas of our face… the worse we feel, the more - overpriced and useless - products we buy.

And I don’t know about you, but I don’t really want to waste all of my hard-earned money on a ton of products that won’t do anything for me, just because some random marketing exec decided I needed to feel bad about the way that I look.

Who is this book for?

Every friend you have that thinks eye cream and night cream are both essentials to their daily routine. That person in your class you heard complain about having acne breakouts after using a primer that was advertised as non-comedogenic. Your sister. Your mom. Every woman you know.

This is a very easy to read non-fiction, and one that I think could change - at least a little bit - the lives of a lot of people. I do believe it will slightly change mine, for the better.

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What I enjoyed most about this book was the author's feel good message about beauty and self-worth. That women are enough just the way they are in their natural skin, without the need for make-up and expensive products.

I can't attest to the recommended products as they are brands I have always avoided and the specific products don't seem to be available in my country, but I have taken other advice on board.

I am now regularly using sunscreen and trying to find a moisturiser that fits my skin. I have problem skin and this book has honestly motivated me enough that I may go see a dermatologist if I can't figure it out on my own!

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An interesting little book that mostly focuses on cosmetic advertising and how these myths are responsible for taking money from our pockets and adding very little value to what we seek. I think it needs more scientific sources to back up its own claims, and people need to get used to being fact-checkers. I’d also change the title: “hoax” as a word that Trump has tainted.

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The Skincare Hoax is a tough one for me, as I felt like there were some important facts shared throughout, but also a lot of redundancy. Dr. Frey came off as very patronizing in my opinion, which turned me off pretty quickly. I think she shared some interesting information, but also that a lot of her generalizations didn't apply to me, and honestly, to most people.
This is definitely the kind of book I'll take some nuggets of wisdom from, and leave the rest behind.

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Okay, friends, this is going to be a fairly long review so buckle up! I had a lot of thoughts while reading this book and will do my best so list them out thoroughly, yet efficiently, below. In short, The Skincare Hoax was a mixed bag for me.

I don't usually provide a lot of context for my reviews, but it feels more important for this one. Since I was old enough to remember I have struggled with skincare issues. It took a few doctors and many visits to finally get a diagnosis of keratosis pilaris, which is so incredibly common (just maybe not as intense as mine) that I'm shocked it took so long. During my adolescence I tried many products that never seemed to help. Fast forward to adulthood. I spent the better part of a decade working in beauty retail, with heavy emphasis on skincare. It was through learning more about the skin and the beauty industry that I was able to finally make peace with my KP and help improve the condition of my skin over time. Now that that's out of the way...

Let's start with the things I did enjoy in this book:

1. Generally speaking, this book contains a lot of helpful information for people who are overwhelmed by all of the options present for skincare. The most common product types, ingredients, and hotly-debated issues were examined with brevity and clarity.

2. It is very clear that Dr. Frey has a strong determination to empower every person to embrace their natural beauty and to prioritize the actual health of their skin over beauty ideals. This was a lovely and compassionate approach to take with an audience that likely has some very negative feelings wrapped up in their quest to understand skincare.

3. The discussion of terms like hypo-allergenic, dermatologist tested, and non-comedogenic were wonderful! It was always a pet peeve of mine when a client would come into any of the retail chains I worked at demanding one or more of those three labels, which hold very little meaning.

4. Defining the difference between a cosmetic and a drug so that the layperson reading this book could understand that no cosmetic can deliver on any claims of physically altering the skin or its function.

5. The discussion of products that Dr. Frey calls "unnecessary" but I would simply term as "optional" was informative (though see a point below over some of the language). Many people jump into using what are often called "actives" in an aggressive and uniformed manner, which can cause more damage to the skin than any cosmetic "good". Additionally, many people will over use a product, basing their assumptions off of product packaging or what other people have recommended.

6. The entire section discussing common skincare myths related to the "clean" or "free of" movements was refreshing. Many of the common and overblown arguments were discussed here in easy-to-understand language.

7. Another ingredient win. Loved the discussion about alcohol in skincare. There were so many times I had to adamantly reassure someone that a product was perfectly fine for them even though it had alcohols in it.

Here are the things that left me frustrated or unimpressed:

1. Related to point two above. The language used to empower was often directed solely at women through the use of feminine pronouns. I am very aware that cis-gender females are the primary demographic for beauty advertising, but I believe that skincare should be important to everyone regardless of their gender identity. It would have been nice to see more neutral language when discussing the negative impacts of beauty marketing.

2. Again, related to point two. Obviously, we should all be able to find beauty without the use of products that were created specifically to make other people rich. Defining our self-worth by the way our skin looks (or any other beauty standard) can be detrimental to our mental wellbeing. However, I do not think there is anything wrong with wanting to use additional products for their "superficial" benefits. Having your skin appear a certain way due to your own preferences is not a bad thing. While there were passages of the book in which Dr. Frey allowed that additional "unnecessary" products could still be used, there were other sections in which her statements came off as dismissive of anyone who would think of using such "unnecessary" items.

3. Dr. Frey discusses the use of facial cleansers a few times in the text. They are generally filed under "unnecessary" and she recommends simply washing with water alone. In fact, she says it's easiest to just wash with water in the shower. My first issue is that it should be clarified that if using water to wash the face, the person should take care that it isn't hot. Dr. Frey did not discuss water temperature in the book, but it is an important factor of skincare. A recent study titled "Impact of Water Exposure and Temperature Changes on Skin Barrier Function" (Herrero-Fernandez, et. al), showed that washing hands with hot water (106 F) can damage skin barrier function. The average temperature of a shower is 105 F. Of course, some may consider the hands and the face to be very different "types" of skin. Dr. Frey does not make this distinction and sometimes argues the opposite, so I'm operating similar assumptions here. Additionally, it is claimed that even if you wear makeup and sunscreen, you can use water to remove them so long as they are water soluble. I think this tracks if an individual wears very light makeup. But as someone who enjoys going bare faced and wearing a "full glam" face....A lot of heavier makeups simply will not remove adequately with just water (especially not lukewarm water).

4. Again with the makeup. There is a passage in which Dr. Frey says that washing ones makeup off before bed is not necessary, as leaving makeup on does not cause premature aging, wrinkles, etc. Most of the information I have encountered states that makeup removal is recommended not because we are going to bed, but because of the length of time that inevitably means the makeup will be on your skin. And, no, the skin doesn't need to "breathe", as Dr. Frey pointed out. But residual makeup around the eyes can cause glands under the eyelid to be clogged. Similarly speaking, the skin can become clogged by facial makeup, which traps acne-causing bacteria in the pore.

6. Dr. Frey dismisses many common "active" ingredients by saying that the scientific evidence for them does not conclusively prove that they are producing the effects that they claim. Some quick googling of scientific journals related to one such ingredient (caffeine) did support this. The research is, quite frankly, very thin on many of these subjects. What bothered me about this after reading the book fully is that Dr. Frey later sings the praises of hyaluronic acid as an ingredient that is great to use in conjunction with an occlusive (or a great moisturizer). It caused dissonance in my understanding of what I was supposed to take away in regards to ingredients like this.

And, lastly, a list of things that leave me with mixed feelings:

1. It was super interesting to learn that sometimes products will have the exact same ingredient list, but be marketed as completely different products simply because of packaging. An example Dr. Frey repeated at least twice was the comparison of the Neutrogena Hydro Boost Hyaluronic Gel Eye Cream Moisturizer for Extra-Dry Skin vs. the Neutrogena Hydro Boost Hyaluronic Acid Gel Eye Cream. These do in fact have the exact same ingredient list, which I will be taking advantage of next time I run out of eye cream! However, there is another formulation of the moisturizer that is only for Dry skin (not Extra-Dry). Without a full understanding of the minuet formulation differences, my first guess would be that the Dry Skin formula is lighter weight. It's not uncommon that a person might enjoy a lighter weight moisturizer for their entire face while still using a heavier cream for their under-eye. All this to say, it's worth checking the ingredients lists for gems like this, but make sure to read very carefully!

2. Dr. Frey uses her own non-scientific (in the sense that the methodology does not adhere to strict guidelines) surveys and anecdotal evidence as foundations for her arguments or as evidence in support of her opinions. This is absolutely fine, but I think it is important that the reader not conflate Dr. Frey's experiences with research published in scholarly journals, which are referenced from time to time in the book as well.

3. Harmful side effects were listed for products like masks & facials. In fairness, these products and procedures could cause a person to experience breakouts, contact dermatitis, redness, or swelling. It's worth warning folks about, especially with some of the more intense products on the market that are often used incorrectly by the consumer (here's looking at you The Ordinary's AHA/BHA peel). However, those side effects can come from other more mundane products, even the two product categories that Dr. Frey touts as being the only necessary steps in a skincare routine. As Frey mentions in other sections when discussing terms like hypoallergenic and non-comedogenic...those words can never guarantee that a person won't have an adverse reaction to a product. And that goes for any product, not just the ones Dr. Frey considers "unnecessary".

4. The discussion about primers had me chuckling to myself. I personally do not feel that they are a necessary part of my routine and that a moisturizer will suffice for my needs. As someone who is incredibly dry and has very little sebum production, this makes sense. However, someone on the opposite end of the spectrum may need a primer to act as a shield between their skin and their makeup, basically delaying the impact of natural oils on makeup.

5. The anti-aging discussion left me with mixed feelings. Perhaps that is because I understand that skincare cannot halt or reverse aging, as Dr. Frey points out. During my years in retail i worked with many women, usually "middle-aged" or above, who believed that an "anti-aging" product should be able to turn back the clock and undo years of behaviors that negatively impacted their skin. No cosmetic can do this. However, I do think it's worth it for individuals to learn about new advancements in the skincare industry and to invest in preventative care. Dr. Frey makes it clear that the best "anti-aging" product is a good sunscreen and I agree. Generally taking care of our skin's health in a preventative way is the best course of action when it comes to "anti-aging".

Goodness, that is without a doubt the longest book review I've ever written. If you read all of that, thanks for sticking around. I hoped it help you understand if this book is a good fit for you!

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