'A beautifully evocative book coursing with wisdom and humour... I loved it.' – HELEN MACDONALD, author of H is for Hawk

'Anyone with a spark of adventure will enjoy.' – NOAH STRYCKER, author of The Thing With Feathers

'Antarctica has a special way of changing the lives of those lucky enough to experience it... Peter captures that magic.' – MATTY JORDAN, author of The Antarcticans

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At 64° South, on a tiny Antarctic island bustling with penguins, even the smallest lives leave a mark.

Welcome to Port Lockroy – the world’s southernmost post office, a tiny outpost on a soccer-pitch-sized island off the Antarctic Peninsula, shared by a handful of humans and a thousand curious gentoo penguins.

When travel writer Peter John Watson boards a ship bound for Antarctica, he has no idea how deeply life at the end of the world will change him. Between long shifts counting penguin chicks, welcoming passing ships, and sorting mail, he discovers a whimsical world where climate science, storied heritage, and captivating wildlife converge in one of the most inhospitable places on earth.

From the secret origins of Base A – Britain’s first continuously occupied base in Antarctica – to the tender rituals of pebble-gifting penguins; from Christmas spent in perpetual daylight to the heartbreak of the natural order and the quiet triumph of new life, this is a story of connection, resilience, and wonder.

As the gentoos shed their feathers and Peter prepares to leave before winter closes in, Counting Penguins becomes a tender meditation on isolation and hope – a reminder that even in the coldest corners, small acts of care can ripple far and wide.

Perfect for fans of Raising Hare and H is for Hawk