When Mary Kay Ash founded her company, Beauty by Mary Kay, in 1963, women had limited options in a male-dominated business world. By the 1970s, the cosmetics and skincare company had a salesforce of tens of thousands and became the first woman-founded firm listed on the New York Stock Exchange. Mary Kay and the pink Cadillac turned into cultural icons, and the company remains a billion-dollar global business. Often dismissed as a lipstick-selling side hustle or labeled a predatory multilevel marketing scheme, Mary Kay drove a major and surprising shift in women’s economic opportunities outside the office.

This book tells the story of Mary Kay Ash and the cosmetics firm that bears her name, from its founding and growth to the distinctive gendered corporate culture she cultivated. Ash combined direct sales and multilevel marketing strategies with workplace flexibility, a rhetoric of “be your own boss,” and a sense of community and recognition for American women as they entered the workplace. She monetized women’s social networks and fostered a lifestyle brand built on values of faith, family, and free enterprise. Cassandra L. Yacovazzi explores how women in Mary Kay have navigated opportunity, structural constraints, and shifting gender norms, showing how they are sometimes empowered and sometimes exploited. She also considers Mary Kay Ash’s complex personal life and carefully constructed public image, simultaneously a maternal icon and a driven executive. In this nuanced view of Mary Kay that elevates the voices of the women who participated, we find new insights into the history of the beauty industry, female entrepreneurship, and women’s work in the United States.

Cassandra L. Yacovazzi is associate professor of history at the University of South Florida. She is the author of Escaped Nuns: True Womanhood and the Campaign Against Convents in Antebellum America (2018). Her mother was a longtime Mary Kay saleswoman.